SPRING HOME IMPROVEMENT 2014

New regulations prompt switch from oil-based to latex exterior paints

By Mike Lange
Staff Writer

    After more than a century of common household use, many oil-based exterior paints are going by the wayside, much in the same manner as 8-track tapes and Windows XP.
    Part of the reason is new federal regulations. But from a practical standpoint, the new acrylic-based latex paints are just as easy to apply and last longer than the traditional oil-based blends.

    In the 1990s, the Environmental Protection Agency, which regulates air pollutants, began focusing its attention on VOCs (volatile organic compounds) which are found in everything from deodorant to shellac. In paint, VOCs are additives or solvents, such as mineral spirits, lacquer thinner, dryers, oils and alcohol.
    So manufacturers have slowly phased in low-VOC latex paints.
    But one brand, Duck Back – based in California – has traditionally been “five years ahead of everyone else” when it comes to reformulation, according to Ray Romano of Lovell’s Guilford Hardware and Building Supply. “I call it ‘stain on steroids.’ It’s that tough,” Romano said.
    While oil-based exterior paints are best known for ease of application, they also can cause problems, Romano said. “Oil holds bacteria; so if your deck is not 100 percent dry, you could wind up with mold in a relatively short time if you apply an oil stain too quickly,” he explained.
    Proper preparation of a surface is the major key to successful painting, Romano said. “You can use a pressure washer to get the surface ready, but Duck Back also makes a wood brightener that brings out the detail of the wood,” he added. But he advises not to be in a hurry to paint or stain an exterior surface, even though acrylics can be applied to slightly-damp surfaces. “I’d wait a day or two. You’re doing a job that’s going to last quite a few years, so don’t be in a hurry,” Romano said.
    Over time, sunlight and extreme weather – like the brutal Maine winter of 2013-14 – can wreak havoc on exteriors. So it’s a good idea to inspect your house from top to bottom, noting spots in need of repair along the way.
    Areas that take a beating include doors, windows, sashes, wood trim and fascia boards. Some may require wood filler to smooth out the surface, but it’s wise not to take shortcuts.
    Tim Robinson, the owner of Dover True Value, agrees. “Clean and scrape the surface, pressure-wash it and let it dry several days. You also have to take rainy weather in consideration, like we had early last summer,” Robinson said.
    Robinson’s store carries the True Value brands of paint and stain, and latex is clearly the customer favorite, he said. “It’s a lot more flexible. It won’t crack when you apply it over wood and it lasts longer,” he added. “If applied correctly, your exterior paint job should last about 15 years.”
    True Value also recommends using a primer if you’re going to drastically change colors. Primers lay the foundation of your paint job and can be used on wood, metal, drywall and concrete.
    Robinson also said that do-it-yourselfers shouldn’t skimp on accessories, either. “Use a good-quality brush. It makes a big difference in the application,” he said. “A few dollars spent on the right tools pays off in the long run.”

Are high-priced paints worth the difference? Not really, says Consumer Reports

Contributed article

    In Consumer Reports’ latest tests of interior paints, Farrow & Ball, an import from England known for its colors, was the worst at hiding old paint and scored near the bottom of the ratings.
    It took two coats of its eggshell finish in white – which costs $105 per gallon – to do what the top-rated Behr Premium Plus Ultra Satin in white – which costs $34 per gallon – did in one.
    The full report and Ratings of interior paints is featured in the March 2014 issue of Consumer Reports and at www.ConsumerReports.org.
    “Our new Ratings show that spending top dollar won’t always get you better paint,” said Celia Kuperszmid-Lehrman, deputy content editor of home and appliances for Consumer Reports. “Shoppers should also be wary of relying on past experience to pick a paint, as brands frequently reformulate from year to year, changing the performance of the paint.”
    This year, Consumer Reports toughened its interior paint tests by applying water and oil-based stains to painted panels in addition to testing how well paints held up to scrubbing, how well they hid old paint and the smoothness of the finish.
    The Farrow & Ball eggshell and gloss paints left a rough, grainy finish and lost most of their sheen after cleaning, but like the Behr Premium Plus Ultra Satin, resisted stains well. However, Lowe’s Valspar and Olympic satin finishes didn’t make Consumer Reports’ Recommended list this time around.
    Additionally, the Farrow & Ball color wasn’t that hard to match. Consumer Reports sent a secret shopper to three Home Depots with a panel painted with Farrow & Ball’s Lulworth Blue Estate Eggshell. The shade of blue, created by Home Depot’s computerized, color-matching technology, using the top-scoring Behr Premium Plus Ultra Satin was only about one percent lighter, according to Consumer Reports’ colorimeter, a difference that testers couldn’t see.
    When picking a new interior paint, Consumer Reports suggests the following:
    • Use online resources to get ideas. Whites and neutrals are in style again, and warm grays are hot too. Consumers can find inspiration at the manufacturers’ Pinterest boards and websites, where they can compare color palettes or play with additional painting tools.
    • Pick the finish. Many eggshell and satin paints have become much better at standing up to scrubbing, according to Consumer Reports’ latest tests. Flat paints are better than eggshell at hiding imperfections because they don’t reflect light, but they are also the least stain-resistant, so flat-finishes aren’t an ideal choice for busy rooms.
    • Nail the perfect color. Light affects color significantly. Once a hue has been selected, consider buying three samples: the desired color, one a shade lighter and one a shade darker. Paint a sample next to a window and in an area that’s dark, viewing the colors in daylight and at night, with the lights on and off.

Green lawn care tips for the season

    Decreasing or eliminating the use of chemicals such as pesticides (which include insect and weed killers) and fertilizers is a great place to start to reduce health risks.
    Kids and pets are more likely than adults to roll on a lawn, walk barefoot (think paws or feet), put things in their mouths, and generally come in contact with chemicals applied to lawns. And with this exposure comes risks. Noting this, a study done by Purdue University found “exposure to herbicide-treated lawns and gardens increases the risk of bladder cancer in Scottish terriers”.
    Can you have both a healthy GREEN lawn and one safe for kids and pets? Yes!
    New research from the University of Connecticut as part of a New England Cooperative Extension project showed that lawns over 10 years of age need NO fertilizers. Simply leaving your grass clippings provides enough natural nourishment to feed the grass. (Younger lawns may need a little nitrogen.) Plus most lawns don’t need phosphorus – Maine soils are rich in it. So look for Phosphorous Free, P-free or bags marked 10-0-0, and apply half the amount called for on the bag.
    If you are going to apply fertilizer it is best to do so in late summer/early fall when our cool weather grasses have their fall growth spurt. At this time you are feeding the grasses and not the weeds because the weed species are going dormant. Fertilizing in the spring feeds the weeds! Another important rule is not to over-fertilize. Determine the size of your lawn and buy only what you need, storing any extra for next year. Over-fertilizing wastes money and doesn’t improve your lawn.
    What about weeds? First, remember the weeds in your lawn have no associated environmental or health risk, but applying pesticides or weed and feeds (which contain pesticides) does carry risks. But if the sight of weeds in your lawn is really something you can’t stand, there are ways to reduce them. First, as mentioned above, stop feeding them! Only fertilize your lawn in early fall. Second, set the mowing height high, at least three inches. Taller grass shades out competing weeds and protects grass roots from drying out, resulting in healthier grass plants. Over seeding throughout the growing season with perennial ryegrass and fescue also make it tougher for weeds to grab a foothold in your lawn. And as much as we all try to avoid it, simply removing the offending weeds by hand is also effective and has no risk to kids or pets.

Sprayfoam insulation offers superior R-value, quick payback

By Greg “Skip” Doodson
Circle D Sprayfoam

    With today’s rising cost of energy and increasing code requirements, it only makes “cents” to insulate with the best material available. Sprayfoam insulation is the highest R-value per inch of thickness of any insulating material available. It also provides an air and moisture barrier, as well as a Class II vapor retarder, in one step. All these elements are required per the new codes. Installing all these in one step ultimately saves money.

Bangor Daily News photos by David M. Fitzpatrick

SPRAYFOAM INSULATION — Skip Doodson of Circle D Sprayfoam gets into some tight spaces to insulate an existing building with sprayfoam.

    Sprayfoams are non-toxic, sprayed-in-place insulation solutions. They offer added value because they can act as an air and moisture barrier solution that windproofs and seals wall, floor, and ceiling cavities. They prevent air movement (including spaces around electrical outlets and light fixtures, at baseboards and where walls meet windows and doors). This means that unconditioned air cannot seep in from the outside — which can bring with it moisture, insects, mold spores, pollen, dust, or other environmental pollution.
    Sprayfoam, through its air-sealing ability, allows the homeowner, for the first time, to truly control his indoor air quality. Take into account the proven, increased performance of sprayfoam, and you save more money and energy. The majority of heat loss — 40 percent to 50 percent — is attributed to air infiltration. Stop this and you save 40 percent to 50 percent of your energy dollar.

Bangor Daily News photo by David M. Fitzpatrick

SPRAYFOAM TRUCK — Circle D employee Scott Belanger mans the equipment in the truck that feeds the chemicals that make the sprayfoam, as well as feeds Doodson’s oxygen supply.

    That is what sprayfoam can do for you. If new construction is your goal, plan your work and work your plan. If you plan your insulation system in advance, you may save on other construction costs such as dimensional framing, windows, doors, venting, and HVAC systems.
    Sprayfoam can make an old farmhouse perform like new again. It is the only way to get adequate R-value in the old-style two-by-four walls. The old framing was never perfectly spaced, but the sprayfoam will always fit — perfectly.
    I spray over 100 rock and concrete basements and crawlspaces every year. Seventy percent of my customers report payoff of one season with the energy savings; the other 30 percent report payoff in the second year. I have never had a customer say it took longer than two seasons to pay off their investment. Where else can you get that kind of return on investment?
    Lastly, but most importantly have your foam installed by a professional. They are experienced, have the proper equipment, training and safety gear to get the job done. Often times the pro is less expensive than the do it yourself kits as well. Feel free to call one. Those that will take the time to answer all your questions and concerns will also take the time to do the job properly.
    There have been plenty of independent sources of information about sprayfoam, including Building Science Digests and the U.S. Department of Energy’s Oak Ridge National Laboratories. You can also find more valuable information about sprayfoam at Sprayfoam.com.
    Greg “Skip” Doodson is the owner of Circle D Sprayfoam in Exeter, established in 2007. Visit CircleDSprayfoam.com or call 461-3686 to learn more.

Early cutting leads to healthier plants

    The old adage states that April showers bring May flowers. The warmer weather also brings out the leaves on the trees and the blossoms on the shrubs. But before those leaves and blossoms start to bud, now is the time to trim those trees and shrubs back.
    You may want to trim these plants for any number of reasons. Maybe a portion of it is diseased or broken off, or maybe it has just become overgrown and unsightly. No matter the reason, though, you should go through these few steps to make sure you prune properly for the health of the plant.
    The reason you want to do that now, instead of later on when the plant is in full bloom is because the plants are still fairly dormant, so any pruning you do will most likely not stunt the growth of the plant. There is less stress put on the plant and less sap loss this way.
     First and foremost, do not tackle any job you feel uncomfortable with. If the job feels too big, like taking a large branch off a tree, please call a professional.
    For most other jobs, the first thing to do is make sure that your pruning shears are sharp. A dull shears will most likely tear the plant instead of cutting cleanly, causing more stress on the plant and possibly affect its bloomage in the spring.
    When it comes to removing unwanted branches, you want to cut as close to the base of the branch where the off-shoot forks away from the main branch as possible. A flush cut alongside the main branch will create less stress to the plant.
    There’s no need to put anything on the cuts either. Though sap in the plant may not be flowing as quickly as it would in the summer months, the plant will still cover the cut with it’s own sap and it will heal on it’s own just fine.
    A little time and effort now is not only best for the plant but also give you a beautiful plant to enjoy all summer long.

Energy saving tips

    • Switch off electrical appliances completely when not in use. TVs use power when in standby mode.
    • Defrost your refrigerator regularly. When ice builds up, your freezer uses more electricity. If it frosts up again quickly, check that the door seals are strong and intact.
    • Check your hot water temperature. It does not need to be any higher than 140 degrees Fahrenheit for washing purposes.
    • Insulate your hot water pipes to prevent heat loss, and your water will stay hotter for longer. Plus, simply fitting a jacket onto your hot water tank can cut waste by up to three-quarters.
    • Take showers over baths, because a bath consumes five times more hot water, and buy a low-flow shower head for more efficiency and it will pay for itself in no time.
Source: Penquis