Comida del Lago provides street tacos in downtown Greenville

GREENVILLE — Gary Dethlefsen has discovered that when you live in a decidedly rural county like Piscataquis, diversification can be a key to successfully making a living. He has been interested in food related work for decades and has created three companies that help sustain him during the year: Moose Bee Jam and Granola, Lakeshore Provisions, Catering and Chef Services, including Mainley Treats Wholesale Baking Company (supplying bakery items for Northwoods Outfitters in Greenville), and Big Moose Deli which provides meals to hungry skiers during the winter season at Big Squaw Mountain.

Now he has a fourth – Comida del Lago, a charming street taco stand at 3 Lakeview St. in downtown Greenville.

“Mexican is one of my favorite foods,” Dethlefensen said. “I started with this idea about three years ago. I wanted to create a place where everything was as fresh and local as possible. I make all the salsas and meats from scratch using local products whenever possible, and the taco shells themselves are good ones, coming from a very reputable place in Texas – they have that authentic flavor which works well with the ingredients I add.”

Observer photo/Shelagh Talbot
COMIDA DEL LAGO — Gary Dethlefsen , owner of Comida del Lago, serves a patron.

Outside his commercial kitchen on Lakeview St., Dethlesen has created a little dining garden; lush vegetables grow beside the tables and chairs, parked under big umbrellas, and a magnificent hyacinth bean plant, with beautiful purple blossoms twines up a center pole. “That particular bean plant is edible,” Dethlefesen noted. “From the beans to the leaves and even the flowers.”

Dethlefsen is pretty much a one-man show in all these endeavors but has two part-time people. “I spin around as fast as I can,” he grinned. “At some point I would like to employ some full-time people. I’m thinking perhaps kids from Greenville high school. It would make for a good summer job and they would learn skills they could carry forward; some might even want to be chefs too.”

As he chopped and sliced items to use at Comida del Lago the following day, Dethlefsen observed, “I am always trying new ways to bring out the authentic. For example, meats prepared in Mexico can be cooked with cinnamon or cloves. I stay away from avocados at this point because they are so perishable and really not required in the ‘street food’ menu I have created.”

Dethlefsen has been looking for that special niche in his community and unique ways to serve it. “I like the idea of local food and local agriculture coming back to the community,” he said. “Keeping it fresh and not letting things go to waste is as important.” He prides himself on baking with locally sourced ingredients as well. “I have a cookie I make for Mainly Treats that comes from mostly local ingredients – the oats, the flour, the eggs and so forth are all local. The only items I have to source elsewhere for these are sugar and cinnamon.”
Dethlefsen observed that Portland, Maine was a driver for the resurgence of the local farm to table movement. “Many of the restaurants there pride themselves on using locally grown foods. It’s the way it should be, I believe. It’s always been part of my food philosophy.” He added.

Here are some of the flavor-filled taco offerings at Comida del Lago: Roasted Veggie – sweet potatoes, black beans, corn salsa, salsa roja, pickled onions and cilantro; Smoked Chicken – shredded whole chicken, cheddar cheese, salsa verde, pickled onions and cilantro; and Barbacoa Beef – Adobo braised and shredded chuck, salsa roja, crema, corn salsa, pickled onions and cilantro. The tacos are soft corn or flour and very reasonably priced, ranging from $2 to $4 per taco. He also offers Tostadas for $6 and sides of black bean and corn salad. Beverages include Coke, Diet or Regular, Iced Tea and Water, all $1 each. BYOB is also allowed.

At this point Comida del Lago is only open on Sundays and Mondays. It’s all Dethlefsen can manage as a solo chef and those are two days when some other restaurants in the area are closed. The hours, weather permitting, are 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. “I am closed briefly for siesta from 3 p.m. to 4:30 p.m.” he smiled. “That gives me time for a quick errand if needed.”

Stop in on either of those days and find out what the buzz is about. For information about Lakeshore Provisions and Mainely Treats, call 207-695-2400. Moose Bee Granolas and Jams and Jellies can be purchased at Indian Hill Trading Post or though the Moosehead Marketplace (mooseheadmarketplace.com or call 207-280-0817).